Trick your spring flowering trees and shrubs into
thinking that it's spring and forcing them to bloom!
You do this by cutting branches and bring them indoors. This
is called 'forcing', making them think it is spring!
Introduction
Branches from flowering trees and shrubs can be forced
into bloom easily and inexpensively. Flowering branches can bring the
outdoors inside and add color during a long winter. These branches also
give the floral designer some unique and inexpensive alternatives.
Trees and shrubs which bloom early in the spring form
flower buds the previous fall before dormancy. After at least 8 weeks of
cold weather (under 40 degrees F) the branches are ready to overcome
dormancy and are capable of blooming. By undergoing spring-like
temperatures and moisture, the flowers are forced open.
Successful forcing depends on the type of plant,
cultivar, stage of dormancy, and temperature. This publication provides
guidelines for successful forcing.
Procedure
To insure good results and to be sure that branches have fulfilled their dormancy requirements, it is best to wait until after January 1 to begin forcing branches. Carefully prune out branches, taking care not to injure the plant or ruin the shape of the plant.
Select branches that are well-budded, i.e. with a large number of flower buds. Best results will occur with younger branches because they have more flower buds. Flower buds are usually larger and rounder than leaf buds. If there is a question, cut a few buds open and look for flower parts. Some fruit trees bear flowers on short fruit spurs. Watch for these on apples, pears, and ornamental crabapples.
Select branches at least 12 inches long, pruning them flush with the trunk or main branch. By pruning flush, the wound will heal over quickly, with little danger of insect or disease damage. Be sure to use sharp pruning shears to minimize damage.
Once the branches have been cut, bring them indoors and place the stem ends in water immediately. If possible, totally submerge the branches in room temperature water overnight. A washtub or bathtub works well for this. This soaking allows the branches and buds to begin to break dormancy. Following this, place the branches in a bucket of water. Water may need to be changed often to prevent it from becoming foul.
Another method, if soaking is not possible, is to place the cut ends of the branches directly into buckets of water and mist the branches frequently the first few days. A piece of damp burlap should be wrapped around the branches to help maintain high humidity.
After spraying or soaking, the branches are ready for forcing. The branches should be placed in a relatively cool place (60 - 65 degrees F) to develop. Higher temperatures will cause the buds to develop rapidly, but size, color, and quality may be sacrificed. Along with higher temperatures often goes lower humidity which may cause buds to dry out and fall off. Branches need light for forcing, but not direct sunlight. Heat from direct sun is too intense. If you remember the springtime conditions when these plants bloom naturally, it will be easy to remember the conditions they need.
To help the buds open and keep them from drying, mist the branches occasionally during the forcing period. The closer to spring that branches are forced, the shorter the time required until bloom.
Using Branches
When the flower buds are well developed and showing
color, remove the branches from the buckets and arrange them for
display. Branches that are removed from the buckets at this stage are
less likely to have bruised and broken flowers. Arranging the branches
at this stage also allows the enjoyment of watching the flowers open.
Flowering branches may be displayed with other flowers,
foliage plants, or by themselves for striking displays. The branches
should be kept in a bright, but not sunny location. They will last
longer if they can be moved to a cool (40 - 60 degrees F) location at
night.
|
PLANT TYPE |
BLOOM COLOR |
WHEN TO CUT |
WEEKS TO FORCE |
COMMENTS |
|
Acer rubrum (Red Maple) |
Pink to red |
Late February |
2 |
leaves come out as the blossoms dry |
|
Aesculus hippocastanum (Horsechesnut) |
White-yellow & pink to shades of purple &
red |
Mid-March |
5-6 |
umbrella like foliage, pyramids of flowers
|
|
Alnus incana (Alder) |
Catkins |
February |
1-3 |
long lasting |
|
Amelanchier spp. (Serviceberry) |
White |
Early February |
1-4 |
cherry-like blossoms |
|
Betula spp. (Birch) |
Catkins |
February |
2-4 |
long lasting |
|
Chaenomeles spp. (Japanese Quince) |
Red-orange |
Mid-February |
4 |
especially colorful |
|
Cornus mas (Cornelian Cherry) |
Yellow |
January |
2 |
bright color |
|
Corylus spp. (Hazelnut or Filbert) |
Catkins |
Late January |
2-3 |
long-lasting |
|
Crataegus spp. (Hawthorn) |
White, pink or scarlet |
Mid-March |
4-5 |
--- |
|
Daphne sp. |
Pink |
February |
2-4 |
fragrant |
|
Cytisus scoparius (Scotch Broom) |
Lavender |
Late January |
4-6 |
leaves outlast the blossoms, valuable as
line material |
|
Deutzia spp. (Deutzia) |
White |
Early March |
3-4 |
--- |
|
Forsythia spp. (Forsythia) |
Yellow |
Mid-January |
1-3 |
--- |
|
Fothergilla spp. (Fothergilla) |
White |
March |
2-3 |
fragrant |
|
Hamamelis vernalis (Witch Hazel) |
Yellow |
January |
1 |
very early, spicy fragrance |
|
Kolkwitzia amabilis (Beautybush) |
Pink |
Mid-March |
6 |
--- |
|
Lonicera spp. (Honeysuckle) |
White to pink |
March |
2-3 |
some with fragrant flowers |
|
Magnolia (Magnolia) |
Creamy white to deep red |
Early March |
3-5 |
beautiful flowers |
|
Malus spp. (Apple/Crabapple) |
White, pink, dark red |
February to Mid-March |
2-4 |
double flowering types force more slowly
but last longer |
|
Philadelphus spp. (Mockorange) |
White |
Mid-March |
4-5 |
--- |
|
Populus spp. (Poplar) |
Catkins |
January |
3 |
long lasting |
|
Prunus spp. (Cherry) |
White & pink |
Early February |
2-4 |
many types |
|
Pyrus spp. (Pear) |
White |
Late January |
4-5 |
flowers on fruiting spurs |
|
Quercus spp. (Oak) |
Catkins |
March |
2-3 |
young leaves are pinkish |
|
Rhododendron spp. (Rhododendron or Azalea)
|
White through pink, lavender, lilac to red
|
Late February |
4-6 |
many different types |
|
Rhus spp. (Sumac) |
Yellow |
Mid-March |
2-3 |
flowers in clustered spikes |
|
Salix discolor (Pussy Willow) |
N/A |
February |
1-2 |
remove bud scales to help preserve, display
out of water to prevent rooting |
|
Salix spp. (Willow) |
Catkins |
January & February |
2 |
--- |
|
Spiraea spp. (Spirea) |
White |
March |
4 |
double flower types last longer |
|
Syringa spp. (Lilac) |
White to deep crimson, lilac, pink, some
near blue |
Early March |
4-5 |
very ornamental, fragrant |
Colorful/Artistic Stems
-
Cornus sp. (Red-stem Dogwood)
-
Corylus avellana Contorta' (Corkscrew Hazel)
-
Elaeagnus angustifolia (Russian Olive)
-
Myrica pennsylvanica (Bayberry)
-
Fagus sp. (Beech)
-
Sorbus sp. (Mountain Ash)